MTL - A Mouthful of Sky-high Fried Rice, Lao Tang Apprenticed on the Spot-Chapter 339 eclectic
Chapter 339 Eclectic
"No fat? Impossible?"
Wu Lei was puzzled: "I've been to Xiangjiang, and the char siu I ate were both thin and fat?"
"That's right! Now there are indeed fat and thin fork pork. I also like to eat fat."
Li Yi turned off the fire, took a steel wool ball, put the scorched black pig's head into the pool, scrubbed it, and explained: "In Cantonese-style siu mei, those without skin and bones are called char siu, and those with skin and The one with the bone is called roasted pork, and the one without skin and bone is called roasted pork.
The previous char siu was actually called char siu, which means that there are two ribs and knives inserted.
means that the meat is inserted on the iron fork, and the chef extends it into the oven or on the charcoal fire, carefully controlling the heat and firing.
This method is the production mode of the palace or the government, just like the roasted venison used to describe the wealth of the Jia family in "A Dream of Red Mansions". Ordinary people cannot afford to burn so much charcoal for barbecue. "
The six members of Ivory Mountain saw Li Yi cleaning the pig's head, so they all came over to help.
Hearing Li Yi's description, Yang Shulin said with a smile: "To put it bluntly, it's barbecue?"
"That's about the same."
Li Yi smiled, and then continued: "Actually, the history of char siew in Cantonese cuisine recipes is not long. It started to rise in Yangcheng around the 20th year of Daoguang."
Wen Song was surprised when he heard him call out the year: "How do you know that Daoguang started in the 20th year?"
"It's all in the book."
Li Yi smiled and said: "The development of barbecued pork is actually closely related to the roast goose technique.
There is a saying in the roast meat industry, it is called roast goose in the first oven and char siu in the tail oven. Barbecued pork is usually roasted behind the roast goose.
So, if you want to know when char siu came into being, you can see when Cantonese-style roast goose came into being.
The technique of Cantonese-style roasted goose originated from Jinling’s famous court dish, Hand-cooked Roasted Duck.
At the end of the Southern Song Dynasty, the imperial chef of Jiankang Mansion followed Song Emperor Zhao Bing's anti-Yuan army to Xinhui, Guangdong Province.
Later, because of the failure of the Yamen naval battle, the imperial chefs were scattered in various places in Xinhui, and the technique of roasting duck spread in Xinhui.
There are many geese in Xinhui, so it was later improved to eat roast goose.
However, Xinhui Roast Goose did not spread in Guangdong Province until 20 years before Daoguang. It was introduced to Yangcheng 20 years after Daoguang, and gradually spread. "
Listening to Li Yi's narration, everyone present was fascinated, as if they were listening to a story.
Erren Zhuan also pays attention to flattery. Hearing Li Yi's tone paused, Tang Jianjun added a sentence: "Why? Didn't it spread in the Southern Song Dynasty? Why didn't it spread in Daoguang?"
"Because before the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Huaiyang cuisine had always been the mainstream of court cuisine, and the royal chefs in the palace were all selected from the Huaiyang area."
Li Yi handed the steel wire ball to Wu Lei, and continued: "As a whole, Huaiyang cuisine is valued in the court, and the officials below all regard Huaiyang cuisine as the most valuable, and the same is true among the people.
Twenty years before Daoguang, in the high-end restaurants in Yangcheng, most of the chefs were controlled by government chefs brought by officials who went south.
Even high-end restaurants run by locals will not easily hand over their kitchens to local chefs, so local Cantonese cuisine has not been able to occupy the official mainstream position. "
Wu Lei scrubbed the carbonized layer on the pig's head with a steel wool ball. He didn't realize why he started doing the work unconsciously. He was still looking at Li Yi and asked curiously, "What about Daoguang twenty years later?"
"Then I have to mention one person. His name is Wen Xun. He was one of the four Hakka talents in Meizhou in the Qing Dynasty. He was a native of Dengshe Xiatan Village in Changle. He edited the Changle County Chronicle."
Li Yi washed his hands and explained: "However, his greatest contribution to the culinary world is that he took the lead in setting up a kitchen in Henan, which is now Haizhu District, where he taught the local cooking techniques of Guangdong Province and cultivated a large number of Yangcheng chefs. children.
In the 20th year of Daoguang, because of the outbreak of war, Yangcheng was the first to bear the brunt, so many government chefs of high-end restaurants returned to their hometowns to seek refuge.
In order to operate normally, the owner of a high-end restaurant in Yangcheng had to appoint a young student from Yangcheng who had just completed his studies to preside over the overall situation.
Since then, Yangchengzidi has become the mainstay of local high-end restaurants, and Cantonese cuisine with local characteristics has begun to emerge.
Xinhui’s roast goose technique was introduced to Yangcheng at that time, and barbecued pork also emerged in Yangcheng at that time. "
Listening to Li Yi's description, everyone present seemed to understand, but they still couldn't help sighing: "It seems that the dishes from different regions have been mixed together!"
“It’s the first time I’ve heard of Cantonese roast goose being passed down from Jinling.”
“Cantonese cuisine has not been as popular in history as Huaiyang cuisine, but the main reason why it has gone abroad and become popular all over the world is that it is extensive and diverse, and it is eclectic.”
Li Yi said with a smile: "Cantonese cuisine is a fusion of Kyoto style, Suzhou style, Yangzhou stir fry, local dishes, and even Western styles.
The hanging oven duck and fried chicken in Cantonese cuisine are made in Jinling, and the dry-roasted abalone and barbecued pork cloud legs are also influenced by Sichuan cuisine.
In the 10th year of Xianfeng, the first western restaurant was opened in Yangcheng again. Cantonese chefs also learned Western cooking methods and created new dishes made in Western dishes such as milk salad, butter baked lobster, and dry fried salad.
Cantonese-style meals such as egg tarts, lotus paste buns, and taro buns are also improved on the basis of butter puff pastry, cheese buns, and cream buns in West Point.
It is because people from anywhere in the world can find their favorite delicacies in Cantonese cuisine because they learn from others’ strengths, so there is a saying that they eat in Yangcheng. "
Listening to Li Yi's description, Wu Lei exclaimed: "Eh? That's right! When I had Cantonese morning tea, I felt that egg tarts, pineapple buns, and custard buns tasted like Western food. So early Cantonese food It has already integrated the essence of Western food!"
"It's all the impact of economic development."
Li Yi explained: "At that time, foreign trade was only available in the Yangcheng area, so merchants from all over the world gathered in Thirteen Banks.
The flow of local goods and people accelerates the blending of local flavors.
At that time, most of the people who came to Yangcheng to be officials brought their own chefs with them.
But once the officials left, chefs from all over the world would open restaurants in Yangcheng.
Cuisines from all over the world blend in Yangcheng, which makes the flavor of Cantonese cuisine more and more abundant. "
In the live broadcast room, the audience also listened intently and chatted enthusiastically.
"No wonder when I eat roast goose in Guangdong province, it feels very similar to the roast duck in Jinling. It turns out that it comes from the same source!"
“It feels like Cantonese cuisine is giving back to the other. Other cuisines can learn from it, and they can also create their own characteristics.”
“The only shortcoming of Cantonese cuisine is that it is not spicy anymore. If there are spicy dishes, it will be perfect.”
"Who said Cantonese food isn't spicy? People from Shaoguan expressed dissatisfaction!"
"When you come to Nanxiong and taste it, you will know whether it is spicy or not. People in Jiangxi Province are afraid of it. Believe it or not?"
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(end of this chapter)